[QUOTE=John Mayes] sunburst[/QUOTE]
that is what I was thinking too.
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| Author: | Andy Zimmerman [ Fri Jul 29, 2005 3:27 am ] |
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Another ? from the Newbie If there is a small defect in the soundboard from chip out while cutting the binding slot, how do you fix it. My defect is in cedar. It is very small but noticable. I don't have the piece that chipped out, because it was very small. I do have the left over cedar from when I cut out the top. I don't like putting CA near a soundboard. Do you mix some cedar dust in epoxy??? What works the best??? |
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| Author: | Pwoolson [ Fri Jul 29, 2005 3:32 am ] |
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Don't use dust in epoxy as that will dry darker and stand out like a toupe' with a chin strap. Cut a small sliver from the scrap cedar you have and glue it in with tightbond or white glue. then chisel it to match the edge. You still might see it but the general public won't. |
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| Author: | Colin S [ Fri Jul 29, 2005 4:19 am ] |
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It's just to avoid such mishaps that I always use a gramil knife to cut round top and sides prior to routing the binding channel. In fact one of the most satisfying bits of luthery I've ever done is to cut a binding channel with just the gramil and chisel the old fashioned way, I'm seriously considering doing it again. LMI sell a really good Schneider gramil. Colin |
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| Author: | Andy Zimmerman [ Fri Jul 29, 2005 4:28 am ] |
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Thanks Andy |
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| Author: | Don Williams [ Fri Jul 29, 2005 4:43 am ] |
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While Paul's method is the way to go, I would probably use hyde glue instead, simply because I think it's a more invisible glue when dried. I could be wrong. Hey Paul....the toupe' line....that's hysterical! |
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| Author: | crazymanmichael [ Fri Jul 29, 2005 4:46 am ] |
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better yet use hide glue; and sometimes it is better to remove material up to a grain line and cut your patch to match so that the glue line is at the grain line, if that makes any sense. as usual prevention is better than fixing; such chipouts almost never occur if you keep your router cuts going downhill. and i rather liked the toupe one liner too. |
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| Author: | John Mayes [ Fri Jul 29, 2005 5:07 am ] |
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sunburst |
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| Author: | Brock Poling [ Fri Jul 29, 2005 5:15 am ] |
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[QUOTE=John Mayes] sunburst[/QUOTE] that is what I was thinking too.
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| Author: | tippie53 [ Fri Jul 29, 2005 10:45 am ] |
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When you do the routing next time start high , by this I mean to start at the apex of the bouts for about an inch or 2. this helps to control tear out. I build a number of guitars and it happens. If the tear out is very noticable I cut save the trims of the top and then splice it on and recut the channel. If it is small I have use dust and glue. I have used white elmers , yellow and early super glue and hide glue and dust. The best if wet elmers about 1/4 water to glue , then wick it into the tearout and sand with 120 paper and let the dust fill the void. It makes invisible repairs on spruce. Super glue yellows and hide glue left a spot under the lacquer as it aged. There are many techniques so try one that works for you. Epoxy and super glue are no no's unless you are going to color good luck john hall Blues Creek Guitars |
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| Author: | RCoates [ Fri Jul 29, 2005 1:32 pm ] |
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I use a dremel and a circle cutter. I start in the middle of the channel, work my way out very slowly. About a 1/4 the width of the bit or less. And of course down hill and all that good stuff already mentioned. Go slow! |
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| Author: | Michael McBroom [ Fri Jul 29, 2005 2:11 pm ] |
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I actually made a purfling cutter, following the pattern and directions in Sloane's book, Classic Guitar Construction. I guess it takes a little practice to get the hang of using one. First time I tried using it, it decided to follow the grain lines. Kind of made a mess in a couple of spots. Those things aren't as easy to use as they look. But for precutting the soundboard before routing it for binding/purfling, it does a decent job. More recently, I've just used a chisel to cut the soundboard edge flush with the sides, which I find also works quite well in preventing chip out when routing the binding channels. And something else I've discovered -- the larger the diameter of the router bit I use, the less chance of chipout. Still, making sure you're router is cutting downhill is probably still the most secure way to go, I'm thinking. I got chip out once when cutting the soundhole in a redwood top. I did as others here have suggested and hand-fitted pieces of offcuts into the chip-out area. You'd have to look really hard to see where it happened. Best, Michael |
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| Author: | Brian Hawkins [ Fri Jul 29, 2005 2:22 pm ] |
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Hey Paul, The Toupe' line.....I needed that tonight....thanks!! |
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| Author: | Tim Hammett [ Sat Jul 30, 2005 3:12 pm ] |
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John and Brock, isn't it amazing how some of the most beautiful things come from finding a way to fix a mistake. |
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